Cheesesteaks

Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high.

Add onions and bell peppers and season generously with salt and black pepper.

Cook, stirring often at first then only occasionally as vegetables soften, adjusting heat as needed and adding a splash or so of water if vegetables are browning too quickly, until golden brown and very tender, 25–30 minutes.

Remove pot from heat, add vinegar, and give everything a good stir. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Place short ribs on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and freeze, uncovered, until firm around the edges but still yielding in the center, 45–60 minutes.

Cut short ribs in half crosswise, then lengthwise into very thin slices. Divide meat into 8 portions about 8 oz. each.

Slice baguette in half lengthwise, keeping a long side intact.

Heat a large griddle across 2 burners over medium—a flick of water should sizzle on contact. Lightly coat griddle with oil.

Place 2 portions of meat (about 1 lb.) on griddle; season generously with salt and pepper. Cook, pressing down and pulling slices apart using 2 metal spatulas, until halfway cooked through (you should still see some raw spots).

Scoot meat into 2 oblong portions no more than 1" high and top with some onion–bell pepper mixture.

Top with 2 slices American cheese and 2 slices provolone cheese per pile. Cook, undisturbed, until meat is browned and crisp underneath and cheese is melted, about 4 minutes.

Transfer each portion to a roll; slice in half crosswise. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Serve topped as desired.